What to see and things to do in North Sardinia: the super guide to Italy's magic island

Sardinia is a place where the sounds of an ancient world seem to echo in the silence of the morning. There are intense colours, secrets that peep out, legends, magical creatures half-man and half-beast, pagan rites, stone forests, fairies, and giants. Sardinia is a perfect balance between the uncontaminated Beauty our eyes can see and a world concealed beneath a veil too thin to remain hidden. In this article, you will discover a land capable of letting your imagination fly like few others in the world, perhaps none at all.

We will talk about the sea and the best beaches of North Sardinia, its towns and villages, its breathtaking landscapes, the best places to visit from an architectural and artistic point of view, the signs of its millenary civilisation. Then we will get to know the typical handicrafts made by skilled hands, the museums that best represent the identity of this island, the excellence of the local food and wine. Finally, we will encounter perhaps the most intimate and authentic part of Sardinia and the Sardinian people: their festivals, traditions and events. Here, you will discover how magic merges with spirituality, how the past has never really passed, and how Sardinia embodies the very essence of Beauty, with all its mysteries, charm and contradictions.

If you continue along the North coast, you arrive at the Costa Rossa, so called because of its granite cliffs. This is a still wild and little-explored part of Gallura compared to other more famous destinations, but it offers breathtaking views. Here, the Mistral wind has sculpted over the centuries a rugged landscape, never the same, where an emerald-coloured sea creeps among strangely shaped rocks. Suddenly, as we take the winding road to Santa Teresa di Gallura, we come to the promontory of Isola Rossa, a small island that turns the colour of fire at sunset, and the beautiful beach of Marinedda.

Further on, the evocative scenery of Costa Paradiso where pink granite and dense Mediterranean vegetation frame thousands of small inlets and fjords that give way here and there to unforgettable coves such as Li Cossi and Li Tinnari. Just beyond Costa Paradiso, Cala Sarraina seems to be the perfect place to enjoy crystal-clear water and all the scents of the Mediterranean maquis blending with the smell of salt.  

Just a few kilometres from Santa Teresa di Gallura, Rena Majore has coarse, grainy sand and is popular with snorkelling enthusiasts. Continuing northwards, you reach the beautiful promontory of Capo Testa, where Cala Spinosa is located, a hidden paradise. Embedded in this promontory is a surreal place called Valle della Luna (namely, Moon Valley). Its huge rock formations, small coves, and caves make it resemble lunar soil under the moonlight. It has been inhabited by a hippie community since the 1960s and is a destination for travellers, artists, musicians and the curious in search of peace and serenity. 

We have now reached the northernmost tip of the island. The Costa Smeralda, the north-eastern part of Sardinia, is known for its glittering nightlife, exclusive boutiques and luxury residences. Moreover, there are plenty of breathtakingly beautiful beaches in this area (Liscia Ruja, Capriccioli, the Spiaggia del Principe, etc.). Just a few minutes away is San Teodoro, the ideal location for a holiday at a more affordable price than the places frequented by the VIPs of the Costa Smeralda. The latter is the perfect destination for those seeking the beauty of the sea and the nightlife. The surrounding area offers wide beaches and coves surrounded by rocks, including La Cinta beach, Cala Brandinchi and Cala Girgolu.    

Northern Sardinia has three major towns. Different in terms of location and history, each offers a unique experience that culminates in the traditional festivals. Locals have a deep connection with these events, an essential part of their identity. Here we suggest some ideas for visiting the three cities, while you will find a separate chapter about the most outstanding events in this area of the island.

Sassari is one of the provincial capitals of Sardinia. It is the second largest town in Sardinia by population, and its territory is the fifth largest in Italy. Strolling through the city centre streets, you can admire beautiful palaces and places that are important to the Sassaresi, such as the La Marmora barracks (now a museum of the glorious Sassari Brigade) and Piazza d'Italia. Together with the Fontana di Rosello, the latter is one of the city's symbols. Among the places of art and culture are the museum Museo Nazionale Sanna and the Cathedral of San Nicola di Bari, built in a mixture of architectural styles ranging from Gothic to Baroque and Classical.

Overlooking the sea, Alghero is one of the favourite tourist destinations in the North of the island. It is also known as the Spanish city of Sardinia because of the long period under Catalan rule, whose customs and traditions are still preserved. The Catalan style can be seen both in the houses that line the narrow alleyways of the historic centre and in the language: in fact, one in five inhabitants speaks Catalan, in the local variant. It is also the capital of the Coral Riviera, and Alghero's red coral is recognised as one of the most precious in the Mediterranean, appreciated for its intense ruby colour.

Olbia lies on the gulf bearing the same name. It gives access to Costa Smeralda and is one of the most dynamic and vital cities on the island, thanks to its port and international airport, making it the leading tourist destination in northern Sardinia. The town is home to places of historical and archaeological interest, including Roman ruins and Bronze Age remains such as nuraghi, sacred wells and tombs of the giants.

If we were to imagine a tour including the unmissable stops in the area, three of them would certainly deserve a visit: Castelsardo, Palau and Porto Cervo. Because of their historical interest, attractions, or a unique romantic charm you can't absolutely miss them.

Castelsardo is a village of views and landscapes. Here you can witness some of the most romantic sunsets in northern Sardinia. It rises on a promontory outstretched towards the Gulf of Asinara; it suddenly appears as a vision as you drive along the coastal road coming in from the West. The houses seem to climb the slope that ends with the Castello dei Doria, now home to the Museo dell'Intreccio Mediterraneo (a fascinating museum dedicated to the traditional art of Weaving).

Palau is a village nestled in an inlet opposite the Archipelago de la Maddalena. The landscape is an alternating mix of clear waters and granite rocks shaped by atmospheric agents; during summer, its nights are filled with the joy of lights, events, and clubs. The port of Palau is one of the boarding points for the Archipelago de la Maddalena.

Porto Cervo, finally, is an exclusive seaside village on the north-eastern edge of the island and is the realm of luxury holidays. It is the capital of Costa Smeralda and, in summer, becomes a glittering parade of yachts and celebrities. The Porto Cervo lifestyle consists of breathtaking beaches, shopping in prestigious boutiques from the Piazzetta delle Chiacchiere to the Sottopiazza, exclusive clubs, parties, and sporting events, especially golfing.

Nature is the world's greatest artist, and imagining Sardinia, it seems to have used all its fantasy. Sardinia is not only sea. It is beautiful every season including winter and autumn, from East to West and from North to South. Among the attractions and must-see places in the North, the weather over a long time created spectacular sights. Here, the wind blows hard, the sun beats strong, and the result is a strong nature, sometimes harsh, sometimes romantic, always capable of enchanting whoever is there to admire it.

The Valle della Luna of Capo Testa is not the only one in Sardinia with this name. In the territory of Aggius, in the most intimate and deepest Gallura, there is another Valle della Luna (namely, Moon Valley), also known as Piana dei Grandi Sassi (or Plain of the big stones). Here you can listen to the wind blowing in total silence, caressing a landscape dotted with strangely shaped granite rocks, similar to the moon. This flat but uneven expanse has a great naturalistic value because it is a "unicum" comparable to a few other European areas.

They have been there since the dawn of time, sculpted by the impetuous and patient wind and rain. Sardinia is studded with strangely shaped rocks that look like animals, monsters, or people; they have been observing their world for centuries, perhaps millennia. Here are the most famous in the North.

Along state road 134 in the Castelsardo area, there is a large, rust-coloured boulder about four metres high that has the shape of a seated elephant: the Roccia dell'Elefante (Elephant Rock). This natural monument also has a significant archaeological value because it houses two Domus de Janas (Fairy Houses), used for burial rituals thousands of years ago.  

In the Valle della Luna of Aggius, there is the Frate Incappucciato (which means Hooded Monk), also called Testa di Platone (namely, Plato's Head), whose profile resembles a monk with a covered head.

Among the white boulders that glisten in the sun in the Valle della Luna of Capo Testa, just after Cala di l'Ea, is the Dinosaur Rock, which at 128 metres is the highest in the valley. Its summit is called Punta La Turri or The Skull.

Halfway between Santa Teresa and the Costa Smeralda is the most famous and suggestive of the Gallura rocks. From the top of the promontory of the same name, the Roccia dell’Orso (namely, the Bear Rock) dominates the landscape of Palau and the nearby islands of the La Maddalena Archipelago. It has been a natural monument of the Region of Sardinia since 1993.

In the southern part of the island of La Maddalena, a huge, rounded octopus head emerges from the transparency of the sea. This small, private beach of fine sand is called Testa del Polpo beach (Octopus Head beach).

A strange creature emerges from the turquoise waters of Cala Girgolu, in the territory of Loiri Porto San Paolo. It is a granite turtle, one of the most photographed rocks in Sardinia (unfortunately damaged several times by uncivilised people), which has made the beach famous with the name Spiaggia della Tartaruga (namely, Turtle Beach).

About 20 minutes from Sassari, near the 131 state road, a tall bell tower stands out in the middle of a green valley in the Codrongianos area. This is the Basilica of the Santissima Trinità di Saccargia, the most famous Romanesque church in Sardinia. It is renowned for its two-colour pattern of horizontal stripes made of white limestone and dark basalt stone. The church was consecrated in 1116 and, next to it, we can admire the ruins of the monastery and cloister. This area has always been considered sacred and the echo of ancient cults.  

There are many castles in Sardinia. One of the most impressive in the North is the Doria Castle at Chiaramonti in the Sassari area. Its ruins stand on a hill 465 metres above sea level, overlooking the entire Anglona valley and, on clear days, the coasts of Corsica.  

The Argentiera is located halfway between Alghero, Stintino and Porto Torres. Here, the ruins of the old lead-argent mine and the ghost village overlook a grey beach and a bluer-than-usual sea. Here, you will experience the silence of a place frozen in time. Once, this was the most productive mining settlement in the North of the island. Now, it is the "Open Mar-Miniera Argentiera", the first open-air mining museum, part of Sardinia's geo-mineral park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Domus de Janas (namely, the Fairy Houses) are even more ancient: they belong to the pre-Nuragic civilisation. Popular tradition held that they were the dwellings of small legendary creatures always intent on precious sewing fabrics with their golden looms while singing sweet melodies. Actually, they are tombs dug into the rock (about 3500 in the whole of Sardinia) in such a way as to reproduce the dwellings of the living. The Janas, however, are one of the most significant magical creatures in Sardinian culture. It is said that at nightfall, near their homes, you can still hear the sound of the looms on which they weave tirelessly. Among the fairy houses of northern Sardinia, in the village of Sedini near Castelsardo, the Domus de Janas "La Rocca" is definitely worth a visit. Other sites include S'Incantu, a few kilometres from Alghero, dating from between 3200 and 2600 BC and decorated with all the typical motifs of the pre-Nuragic age, and the necropolis of Sant'Andrea Priu in Logudoro.

As we have said, Sardinian culture is rich in magical symbolism. Legend has it that, in their dwellings, the Janas spent their time weaving gold and silver threads with precious stones. From their hands came splendid and magical jewellery (sas prendas), which thus took on a symbolic as well as ornamental function, a value that has remained intact to this day.

The technique of Sardinian filigree, honeycombing and granulation are ancient craft skills with which typical Sardinian jewellery is created. Among the most famous and significant ones are the Fede Sarda (Sardinian wedding ring), the button and Su Coccu. The filigree, with its very fine threads, gives birth to ethereal and light creations, the Sardinian wedding ring is a symbol of a bond of love; buttons were handed down from mother to daughter and were a symbol of good luck and fertility. Su Coccu is a very ancient good luck charm that can defend the person wearing it from the evil eye, negative energies and influences. These objects are made all over Sardinia, we see them adorning traditional clothes, and they can be bought in handicraft shops, especially in tourist centres.

From the earliest times, the Sardinian people have been skilled forgers dedicated to hunting and warfare. The knife has always been part of the traditional accessories of these people, as the bronzetti (bronze statuettes typical of the Nuragic age) testify. Moreover, when the girl accepted the ring as a gift in engagement rituals, she would reciprocate by giving her betrothed a knife with a horn handle. The most famous switchblade on the island is called resolza or arresoja and the most important centre for its production is in Pattada. The typical pattadese (as it is called) has a mouflon horn handle, while the blade can be made of steel or damask. Curiosity about it: when it was given as a sign of friendship, it was given holding it by the blade to offer the handle.

Castelsardo is famous worldwide for its handmade baskets, made using weaving techniques handed down from generation to generation. Still today, in the medieval village streets, you can meet women who spend hours creating baskets with colourful decorations. Initially, people used dwarf palms, but today they are replaced by raffia as the palm tree has become a protected species. Typical of this town are baskets and corbules (truncated cone-shaped objects). 

The king of Alghero's production is coral, an ancient practice that dates back to the Ancient Romans. The Red Coral needs special living conditions, which, here on the Coral Riviera, give rise to one of the finest qualities in the whole Mediterranean, famous for its intense ruby colour. In the old town centre, you will find shops where you can buy necklaces, bracelets and earrings made from this local excellence.  

Cork is considered the "soft gold of Sardinia" and has been used for more than 3,000 years to produce a variety of objects, from trays, chopping boards and corks to more contemporary jewellery, clothing, bags and clutch bags. The advantages of cork? It is environmentally friendly, stain-resistant, waterproof, soft, malleable, and does not spoil. The village of Calangianus in Gallura is one of the world's largest cork producers.

Culter Museum in Pattada. The history of the town of Pattada has been linked to knives production since the second millennium BC. The International Knife Museum has two main sections, one dedicated to the origins of the Sardinian knife and the other to international knives.   

MIM - Museo dell'Intreccio Mediterraneo in Castelsardo (or Mediterranean Interweaving Museum of Castelsardo). It is located inside the medieval Doria Castle, which dominates the village below. On display are artefacts made by weaving vegetable fibres from Castelsardo itself, Sardinia, and the entire Mediterranean area.  

Coral Museum in Alghero. The Coral Museum is located in an Art Nouveau villa. It tells a very important piece of Alghero's identity through a fascinating discovery journey of the Mediterranean's red gold: the Corallium Rubrum. The town is also home to the Aquarium Rubrum, the first live coral aquarium in Italy open to the public where you can admire live corals.

Oliva Carta Cannas Ethnographic Museum and Museum of Banditry in Aggius. The Oliva Carta Cannas Ethnographic Museum is an exciting dive into the culture and traditions of Gallura and Sardinia and also houses the “Permanent Exhibition of Aggese Carpet”. As for the Museum of Banditry, the town of Aggius was the fulcrum of Gallura banditry for about three centuries, from the mid-sixteenth century to the mid-nineteenth century. The four rooms display interesting documentation and objects worth seeing.

Museum of the Valley of the Nuraghi of Logudoro-Meilogu of Torralba. It houses a large part of the artefacts found at the Nuragic complex of Santu Antine. It illustrates its construction characteristics, offering a significant testimony to the culture of the Nuragic civilisation.

Galluras Ethnographic Museum - "the museum of the Femina Agabbadora" in Luras. Among the many legendary figures of Sardinian folklore, the Accabbadora is one of the most fascinating, mysterious, and enigmatic. Sa femina agabbadora was a woman who brought death to the terminally ill and was called by their families to put an end to their suffering. A sort of archaic euthanasia practised in small rural villages where families were too poor to care for a loved one in that condition. The first ethnographic museum in Gallura is a private project in which the typical environments of Gallura's civilisation have been faithfully reconstructed.