Visit Subbiano: among sanctuaries and silence, a guide to one of the most authentic places in Tuscany

A village with a millennial history and a strong identity, this is Subbiano, the gateway to Casentino, not far from Arezzo. Bathed by the Arno River and surrounded by lush nature, among the many iconic destinations of Tuscany, this small town at the foot of Alpe di Catenaia is a treasure still waiting to be discovered.

Ancient traditions, a privileged location for exploring a territory that has managed to preserve its genuineness, and excellent local cuisine are just a few of the many great reasons to visit Subbiano. So, let’s set off on a journey different form the usual, to discover a place that is eager to reveal its secrets.

Leaving Arezzo behind, as you travel toward Casentino and Alpe di Catenaia, you will soon come across a plain on the left bank of the Arno river. Here, right at the foot of the mountains, lies the village of Subbiano.

A hidden gem of Tuscany, Subbiano is immersed in almost untouched nature. The abundance of water keeps the surrounding oak, chestnut, and beech forests green and thriving. The traces of water mills still visible in the area testify to the strong connection between the inhabitants and their river.

The surrounding countryside is a place of silence and serenity, where olive trees grow and vineyards produce the precious local wines.

Overlooking everything is the imposing peak of the Alpe di Catenaia, forming a natural boundary between Casentino Valley and Val Tiberina. The mountain, with its stunning views, that can be explored along the beautiful paths, both in summer and winter.

The entrance to the village of Subbiano is marked by a statue dedicated to the god Janus, the same figure featured on the city’s banner. Subbiano, as its name suggests, was founded by the Romans right under the protection of the god, at least according to the most accepted tradition.

It is known, however, that the area had been inhabited long before that. Tribes of farmers and herders lived on Alpe di Catenaia as early as the third millennium BC. Later, the Etruscans settled there, followed by the Romans.

From the early Middle Ages, the village first belonged to the bishops of Arezzo, then to various noble families, before eventually coming under the control of Florence.

In 1343, Subbiano managed to break away from Florence, which had become a republic by then, but only for a few decades. In 1384, with the conquest of Arezzo, Florence regained control of the village.

The traces of Subbiano’s eventful past can be found today not only in its territory but also in the Archaeological Museum, the Documentation Center of the Archaeological Culture of Subbiano. The museum is temporarily closed, but shows historic testimony of both the ancient and medieval times.

Likewise, the church, the castle, and the various noble palaces built from the Middle Ages onwards are a charming legacy of the borough's important role even under the Florentine rule.

Rich as it is, in traces of its past, Subbiano has its own heart in the castle built right on the bank of Arno, as it originally served to guard a bridge that crossed the river. Over time, the building transformed from fortress to noble residence. Today, the ruins are still used for exhibitions and events, but the crenellated tower, the castle's oldest part, holds the memory of a long history that began in the 9th century.

In addition to having its own castle in the old center, Subbiano is perfectly situated for those who love these fascinating structures, which the Casentino region has in abundance.

In the hamlet of Castelnuovo di Subbiano, for example, you can find the beautiful Castello della Fioraia, whose massive crenellated tower dominates the village below.

Just seven kilometers from Subbiano is another magnificent manor set in the greenery, the large Castle of Valenzano, restored in an eclectic style in the 18th century. Inside, some original areas still remain, including a hall with a beautiful painted coffered ceiling, a fireplace, and arched windows.

A little further, about fifteen kilometers away from Subbiano, stands the Guidi Counts’ Castle. Located in Poppi, it is one of the most important castles in Casentino and among the best preserved.

Casentino is a land rich in places that testify to the most authentic devotion of its inhabitants and pilgrims throughout history.

When you visit Subbiano you will certainly run into the village’s two churches. The modern Church of San Giovanni Battista, inspired by the model of Christian basilicas, marks the northeast boundary.

The heart of Subbiano’s spirituality, however, is the Church of Santa Maria della Visitazione, located just in front of the castle.

Built in the 14th century on the smaller castle's church, it can be said to be the most representative monument of Subbiano alongside the castle itself. Santa Maria della Visitazione has a single nave too. The entrance is marked by a portico, while inside there is the Chapel of Our Lady of Lourdes, that is part of the ancient castle church incorporated into the more recent structure, and a wooden crucifix cherished by the locals, because it's considered miraculous.

Around the village, there are also parish churches, hermitages, and sanctuaries that tell of a territory where the religious sentiment is a significant part of the local culture. Just over ten kilometers from Subbiano, for example, you can also visit the Pieve di Sant’Antonio a Socana, built on an Etruscan site.

The Sanctuary of La Verna is however the most notable site, closely linked to the history of Saint Francis, just like the nearby Eremo della Casella, and for this reason considered one of the most important places for Christianity in Italy.

The church and the castle are the most important monuments to visit in Subbiano, but the historic center has plenty more to see.

In addition to the previously mentioned archaeological museum, another important cultural site is the Museum of the Second World War "Quelli della Karin". It is located on Via Roma, the main street of the old town, and is a must-see because it preserves memories and documents related to the Second World War, which deeply affected the area. The exhibits include a wide range of war artifacts and even a reconstruction of a true air raid shelter.

Strolling through the recently renovated streets of the village, it's easy to come across ancient noble palaces, once the centers of power in Subbiano. Along Via Roma, for example, are the 16th-century Palazzo Subiani-Ducci and the 14th-century Palazzo del Podestà. On Via dell'Arcipretura, the 18th-century Palazzo Ducci stands, like the others, very well preserved.

Nature lovers will love Subbiano even more because it's ideally located for exploring the stunning natural landscape. The Catenaia Alps, with their rarely explored trails, offer walks of varying difficulty levels, not to be missed.

The historic Cammino Storico di San Francesco, is an authentic journey through history, nature, and religion. Not to be confused with the more touristy Cammino di San Francesco, this recently rediscovered route connects one of the area's main pilgrimage sites, the Sanctuary of La Verna, with Montauto Castle.

In addition to crossing an area of extraordinary beauty along the southern side of Alpe di Catenaia, this path has enormous historical and spiritual value, as it is the same route Saint Francis took on his last journey to Assisi.

At a slightly lower altitude, there is another pilgrimage route with a long history and great historical importance, the Via Romea Germanica. In the Middle Ages, this road connected Scandinavia with Rome through central Europe. The stretch that passes through Casentino and Subbiano is still the same route that Abbot Alberto of Stade traveled in 1236, describing it in a guide written as a funny dialogue between pilgrims.

Less than twenty kilometers from Subbiano is the Monti Rognosi Nature Reserve, whose name refers to the rugged peaks that are home to numerous rare species and are a true paradise for birdwatchers.

Like all Tuscan villages, Subbiano boasts food and wine traditions rooted in ancient customs and based on the use of excellent local products. The territory's olive oil, for example, is of excellent quality.

All the flavors, anyway, reflect the extraordinary regional cuisine, a mile stone of Italian cuisine. On the village tables, you'll find traditional cured meats such as soppressata and finocchiona, pecorino cheeses, Chianina steak, and occasionally venison.

Panzanella, the typical bread soup, and gnocchi called topini are among the most popular and delicious recipes in this area, and you should try them at least once.

Delicious chestnuts come from the lush Casentino forests, while for those with a sweet tooth, honey is an absolute must, along with the panina, a sweet bread with raisins and saffron, typical of the Easter period.

Vin Santo is a Tuscan specialty, a sweet wine easily found in Subbiano. As for wines, there's a different local sweet wine that also has profound cultural significance. It's Moscatello di Subbiano, produced from a nearly extinct grape variety. Recently revived, this unique variety is now cultivated again and even protected.

Given its proximity to Arezzo, visiting Subbiano can be reached quite easily.

The first step is reaching Arezzo, indeed, which is well connected to the rest of Italy.

By car, the Tuscan city can be reached via the A1 highway heading toward Florence.

By train, there are direct connections to Arezzo from Rome and Milan via intercity or high-speed trains. Alternatively, you can change trains in Florence if coming from the north, or in Rome if coming from the south.

By plane, the most practical option is to arrive in Florence. Florence Peretola Airport is only 60 Km from Arezzo. Trains from Florence Santa Maria Novella station to Arezzo are frequent, with a journey time of about thirty minutes.

Once you are in Arezzo, you can take a regional train to Pratovecchio Stia; alternatively, there are also buses available. If you prefer a taxi, the ride takes about fifteen minutes.

Two of Subbiano’s most attended events are closely tied to its rural and wine tradition: the Festa di Finestate and the Grape Festival known as Festa dell'Uva, now in their fiftieth and forty-first editions respectively.

The two celebrations take place almost simultaneously between late August and early September. The parade of floats inspired by country life is one of the most beautiful and meaningful moments, with wide participation from surrounding villages.

Festa dell'Uva, in particular, is a reenactment of what was originally one of the most important events in the rural calendar. Even today, it is much more than just a fair; it is a moment of sharing deeply connected to local tradition.

Another fascinating tradition is carried on by the Subbiano Flag-Waving Group. Their skill often takes them beyond the village and even outside Tuscany, as they perform internationally. They do not have a fixed schedule, but you are likely to see them during the Festa di Finestate.

Furthermore, on May 31, the patronal feast of Santa Maria della Visitazione is celebrated, centered on the church of the same name in the heart of the village.

If you visit Subbiano in July, you can enjoy an unmissable event that blends history and tradition: the Medieval Dinner in the Village. Lit by torches and inspired by 14th-century tables, the dinner comes alive with actors in period costume.

A similar event takes place in September in the square of Subbiano Castle, where the Submission to the Florentine Republic is reenacted.