Weekend in Matera: 2 days to discover the city of Sassi

Considered one of the oldest cities in the world - right after Aleppo and Jericho - and home to not one, but two UNESCO World Heritage Sites — the Sassi and the Park of the Rupestrian Churches, both recognized in 1993 — Matera is a place that feels like it belongs more to the realm of dreams than reality. It’s where the mind drifts off, breaking free from the mundane to embrace something more surreal, distant, and intangible.

A stage for human life since the Paleolithic era and a backdrop for films like Mel Gibson’s The Passion (2004), Pier Paolo Pasolini’s The Gospel According to St. Matthew (1964), and Cary Fukunaga’s No Time to Die (2021), Matera is also a hub for contemporary sculpture and photography, as seen in the MUSMA (Museum of Contemporary Sculpture of Matera) and the "Pino Settanni" Photography Museum. For centuries, Matera has captivated anyone eager to retrace the pivotal steps of human history in Italy, immersing themselves in a landscape where natural beauty and architectural marvels blend in a striking fusion of contrasts.

These contrasts are also evident in the many local institutions working together to develop sustainable tourism models that respect the environment and local traditions, while also embracing new technologies to support these goals.

So, let’s dive in and explore what to do over a weekend in Matera.

While a weekend may not seem like much time, it's more than enough to soak in Matera’s atmosphere and savor everything the city has to offer.

After settling into our hotel, we'll head to Piazza Vittorio Veneto—originally known as Piazza del Plebiscito—located in the city's historic center. From here, we’ll catch our first glimpse of the Sasso Barisano and, in particular, the Basilica Cattedrale “Maria Santissima della Bruna”, all from the vantage point of the Luigi Guerricchio Belvedere, accessed via a charming three-arched portico.

Back in the square, we’ll take a moment to admire the beauty and grandeur of Palazzo dell’Annunziata and the Church of San Domenico, with the adjoining Convent of the Dominican Fathers, now housing Matera’s Prefecture.

Before we set off to explore the Sassi, we'll treat ourselves to a hearty meal, perhaps some orecchiette alla materana, a traditional pasta dish, or cialledda, a cold bread soup, or maybe crapiata, a one-pot dish of pork, potatoes, onions, tomatoes, and spices cooked in a clay pot and served warm—depending on the season—all paired with a glass of Matera’s finest Primitivo wine.

With our appetites satisfied, we'll begin our journey through the Sassi, two natural amphitheaters carved out of the rock: the Barisano to the northwest, characterized by more complex construction techniques, and the Caveoso to the south, mainly composed of caves.

At the heart of it all lies the Civita, the oldest part of the settlement, offering breathtaking views of the city and the Murgia plateau.

We'll spend part of our time visiting traditional case-grotta, once homes to Materan families and shelters for all kinds of animals: mules, horses, rabbits, goats, chickens, and more shared living spaces with the elderly, adults, and children, providing warmth and sustenance.

As evening falls, after a visit to the Palombaro Lungo—the largest underground water cistern in Matera, located beneath Piazza Vittorio Veneto—and watching the sunset from the San Pietro Barisano or Murgia Timone viewpoints, we'll wind down with another glass of Primitivo, this time accompanied by a delightful platter of local meats and cheeses.

Our second day in Matera will start with a visit to Piazza Duomo, where we’ll enjoy breakfast in the shadow of the Cathedral of Madonna della Bruna and Sant’Eustachio.

From there, we’ll slowly make our way to the Park of the Rupestrian Churches, a true treasure trove of history and spirituality.

Starting at the Church of Santa Maria de Idris, perched high on the Montirone (or Monterrone) rocky spur, we’ll continue to the Crypt of the Original Sin, renowned for its frescoes depicting biblical scenes.

Passing through the Church of Santa Barbara, another gem of rock-cut art famous for its paintings depicting the life of the saint, we’ll head to the Rupestrian Complex of Madonna delle Virtù and San Nicola dei Greci, and the Church of San Pietro Barisano, before arriving at the Museum-Laboratory of Peasant Civilization, an open-air museum that tells the story of the lives and traditions of the farmers who once inhabited the Sassi.

After returning from our excursion to the Park of the Rupestrian Churches and enjoying a lunch, perhaps with some Matera bread served alongside fava beans and chicory, or slices of fedda rossa, a smoked sausage with a rich, aromatic flavor, or pezzente della montagna materana, a robust and seasoned sausage, we’ll dedicate the afternoon to leisure, shopping, and perhaps a visit to the National Archaeological Museum of Matera to deepen our understanding of this city’s rich history.

Or maybe give a chance to the Sassi in miniatura, a delightful scale representation of the Sassi di Matera created by artist Eustachio Rizzi in 1996, whose completion took three years of hard work.

Last stop of our weekend in Matera is the Castello Tramontano, from whose top the view is simply spectacular. We can admire the Sassi di Matera, the historic center and the surrounding countryside illuminated by the light of the evening, until you admire the voluptuous profiles.

Then, and only then we will be allowed to go back on our steps and seek, once again, comfort in the insuperable variety offered by the gastronomic tradition of Matera in one of the many restaurants scattered throughout the historic center of the city.