Weekend in Matera: two days of history, archaeology, and local flavors in the city of Sassi

Considered one of the oldest cities in the world - right after Aleppo and Jericho - and home to not one, but two UNESCO World Heritage Sites — the Sassi and the Park of the Rupestrian Churches, both recognized in 1993 — Matera is one of those must-see places for anyone who loves uncovering history and the secrets of authentic local traditions.

A stage for human life since the Paleolithic era and a backdrop for films like Mel Gibson’s The Passion (2004), Pier Paolo Pasolini’s The Gospel According to St. Matthew (1964), and Cary Fukunaga’s No Time to Die (2021), Matera is also a hub for contemporary sculpture and photography, as seen in the MUSMA (Museum of Contemporary Sculpture of Matera) and the "Pino Settanni" Photography Museum. For centuries, Matera has exerted an irresistible charm thanks to a natural and architectural landscape without equal.

So, let’s dive in and explore what to do over a weekend in Matera.

While a weekend may not seem like much time, a weekend is still enough to immerse yourself in the atmosphere of Matera and fully savor everything this extraordinary city has to offer in terms of history, food, nature, and culture. 

To make the most of this experience, choosing the right hotel plays an important role. One of the most charming options is Hotel Il Belvedere, a property overlooking the Sassi, located just a few hundred meters from the heart of the historic center. Its panoramic terrace offers one of Matera’s most iconic views, and is the perfect spot to admire the colors of the Murgia at sunset.

Some of the rooms are carved directly into the rock, offering an authentic and welcoming atmosphere—a perfect blend of ancient tradition and modern comfort, allowing us to experience the soul of the city even in moments of rest.

Let’s start exploring Matera from Piazza Vittorio Veneto, originally known as Piazza del Plebiscito, located in the city's historic center.

From here, we’ll catch our first glimpse of the Sasso Barisano and, in particular, the Basilica Cattedrale “Maria Santissima della Bruna”, all from the vantage point of the Luigi Guerricchio Belvedere, accessed via a charming three-arched portico.

Back in the square, let’s take a moment to admire the beauty and grandeur of Palazzo dell’Annunziata and the Church of San Domenico, with the adjoining Convent of the Dominican Fathers, now housing Matera’s Prefecture.

Before heading to the Sassi, let’s pause for a moment to enjoy a hearty dish of orecchiette alla materana, or perhaps some cialledda—a cold soup made with stale bread—or crapiata, a one-pot meal with pork, potatoes, onions, tomatoes, and spices, slow-cooked in an earthenware pot and served hot (depending on the season). All, of course, to be paired with a good glass of Primitivo di Matera.

Once lunch is over, let’s begin our journey to discover the Sassi, two natural amphitheaters carved out of the rock: the Barisano to the northwest, characterized by more complex construction techniques, and the Caveoso to the south, mainly composed of caves.

At the heart of it all lies the Civita, the oldest part of the settlement, offering breathtaking views of the city and the Murgia plateau.

Part of our visit to the Sassi will be dedicated to exploring the traditional cave dwellings known as case-grotta, once homes to Materan families and shelters for all kinds of animals: mules, horses, rabbits, goats, chickens, and more shared living spaces with the elderly, adults, and children, providing warmth and sustenance.

As evening falls, after visiting the Palombaro Lungo—the largest water cistern in Matera, hidden beneath Piazza Vittorio Veneto—and admiring the sunset from one of the city’s panoramic viewpoints, let’s get ready to enjoy a glass of Primitivo di Matera, this time paired with a delicious selection of local cured meats and cheeses.

A perfect moment to unwind, share reflections on the day, and soak in the peaceful atmosphere of a Materan evening.

Our second day in Matera starts with a morning visit to Piazza Duomo, the perfect spot for breakfast in the shade of the Cathedral of Madonna della Bruna and Sant’Eustachio.

From there, let’s move slowly to make our way to the Park of the Rupestrian Churches, a true treasure trove of history and spirituality.

Starting at the Church of Santa Maria de Idris, perched high on the Montirone (or Monterrone) rocky spur, we head toward the Crypt of the Original Sin, renowned for its frescoes depicting biblical scenes.

Passing through the Church of Santa Barbara, another gem of rock-cut art famous for its paintings depicting the life of the saint, we continue toward the Rupestrian Complex of Madonna delle Virtù and San Nicola dei Greci, and the Church of San Pietro Barisano, before arriving at the Museum-Laboratory of Peasant Civilization, an open-air museum that tells the story of the lives and traditions of the farmers who once inhabited the Sassi.

Back from our excursion to the Park of the Rock Churches, and after enjoying a light lunch—perhaps with some pane di Matera served alongside fava beans and chicory, or a few slices of fedda rossa, a smoked cured meat with an intense, aromatic flavour, or pezzente della montagna materana, a more mature salami with a bold, robust taste—we devote the afternoon to leisure and a bit of shopping.

It might also be the right moment to visit the National Archaeological Museum of Matera, for a deeper dive into the city's long history. Or, why not, make a stop at the Sassi in Miniatura, a finely crafted scale model of the Sassi created by artist Eustachio Rizzi in 1996, the result of three years of meticulous work.

Last stop of our weekend in Matera is the Castello Tramontano, from whose top the view is simply spectacular. We can admire the Sassi, the historic center and the surrounding countryside illuminated by the light of the evening.

Only then we’ll be allowed to go back on our steps and seek, once again, comfort in the insuperable variety offered by the gastronomic tradition of Matera, entering one of the many restaurants scattered throughout the city's historic center.