Santa Luciella Church: the mystery of the skull with ears in Naples

The chaotic beauty of Naples, mirroring the city’s tormented yet soulful nature, reveals itself in every corner of the historic center—even in the most secret ones that, at first glance, seem to hold nothing. That’s exactly the case of a hauntingly atmospheric spot, just a few steps from Via San Biagio dei Librai: the Church of Santa Luciella.

Few notice it, but stepping through its humble entrance means stepping into one of the most fascinating and mysterious places in the city.

The Church of Santa Luciella is located in the heart of Naples’ historic center, near San Gregorio Armeno. It’s a small Baroque gem dating back to the 14th century, known for its evocative atmosphere and for housing the famous “skull with ears,” a symbol of the cult of souls in Purgatory. After years of neglect, it has been restored and is now open to visitors thanks to the efforts of cultural associations. Its charm lies in the deep connection with Neapolitan popular tradition, rich in faith, mystery, and devotion.

But what makes this church so special? What’s the “superstar” of Santa Luciella? No doubt about it—it’s the famous skull with ears, preserved in the church’s catacombs.

According to local legend:

1. The ears were used to "hear" the prayers of the living

2. It was a “special” skull, able to communicate with the afterlife

3. It listened to requests, hopes, and even gave out winning lottery numbers

This unique form of pagan devotion is part of the legendary cult of the “capuzzelle”, or anime pezzentelle—abandoned souls adopted by the faithful in exchange for protection.

Even though our skull friend is definitely the main draw, the guided tour is a deep, immersive experience not to be missed.

Here’s what to expect:

1. The baroque altar and 18th-century frescoes

2. The crypt, carved into the tuff rock, housing dozens of skulls

3. Mysterious Masonic symbols etched into the walls

The blinding artistic beauty of the church contrasts with the eerie atmosphere of the catacombs, making the visit truly unforgettable

The church is dedicated to Saint Lucy, patron saint of vision.

But in the heart of Neapolitans, she’s also seen as:

1. A light against darkness—physical and spiritual

2. A protector from invisible evils

3. An intercessor during life’s most difficult moments

A centuries-old cult that perfectly reflects the ever-present blend of sacred and profane that defines Naples.

After being closed for 30 years due to the devastating 1980 earthquake, the church came back to life thanks to the amazing work of the Respiriamo Arte association.

Thanks to their dedication, they have:

• Restored the frescoes and original decorations

• Reopened the crypt and the underground area to visitors

Naples is a patron of beauty and creativity, and this shines through the passion and drive of these young people who bring forgotten glories back into the light—starting from scratch.

If you're visiting Naples and want to dive into the city’s most authentic soul, Santa Luciella is exactly what you’re looking for.

1. It’s one of a kind – no other place in the world has a skull with ears

2. It’s authentic – far from the usual tourist paths

3. It’s emotional – a mix of faith, history, and superstition

4. It’s a symbol of rebirth – brought back to life by young Neapolitans

5. It’s perfect to uncover the city’s true essence

If you’re into the esoteric and the mysterious, Santa Luciella is just the perfect starting point for a deeper dive into Italy’s most enigmatic city.

You could continue your journey with:

• The Fontanelle Cemetery, in the Rione Sanità

• The Sansevero Chapel, home to the stunning Veiled Christ

• The underground of San Lorenzo Maggiore, where history meets legend

Each of these sites is wrapped in layers of mystery and magic—ideal for anyone curious about the lesser-known side of Naples.

Naples is a city of immeasurable charm, forever shrouded in mystery.

Ancient yet modern, religious yet superstitious, misleading yet never fake. Its contrasts are exactly what make it one of the most fascinating cities in Europe.

From Greek ruins to baroque churches, with natural and culinary wonders in between, Parthenope shines with a light of her own, one that’s simply unforgettable.

The eternal clash—and harmony—between sacred and profane bursts out of every corner of the city. Every alley, even the shabbiest, tells a story—and we at Visit Italy know it well.

Don’t stop at the usual spots. Let your curiosity lead the way.

Santa Luciella ai Librai is proof that real wonder hides in the details—behind a small door, in one of the oldest alleys of Naples.

Address: Via Santa Luciella, 5 – just a short walk from San Gregorio Armeno

On foot: from the “Dante” metro stop, it’s less than a 15-minute walk

Tours: guided only, in small groups. We recommend booking in advance through the official Respiriamo Arte website

Ticket: the entrance fee is symbolic and helps support the restoration project