Chalet Ciro: How "Artisanal Intelligence" Reinvented a Family Bakery Into an Icon in Naples

Chalet Ciro is far more than a café overlooking the Naples seafront, and that’s not just our opinion. A plaque outside the bakery proves it: this is a true Bottega Storica (historic shop). Founded in 1952 by Ciro Fummo, it has spent more than 70 years crafting daily wonders – sfogliatelle, pastiere, cassate, graffe, sandwiches of all kinds – all made with the care of a genuine artisanal bakery in Naples.

What began as a small family venture is now a landmark of Neapolitan food culture, known worldwide. The secret behind so many delicious decades is a relentless focus on quality, from ingredients to service. And a kind of craftsmanship that the team at Chalet Ciro Naples likes to call “artisanal intelligence”. Their work has earned praise from the New York Times, The Guardian, The Wall Street Journal, and Monocle. Is the hype around this beloved Neapolitan bakery justified? Yes, and here’s why.

Say Chalet Ciro, and one thing springs to mind: the iconic graffa. It’s a soft, warm little miracle.

You eat one fresh off the fryer as you stroll along the seafront, take a bite while browsing the shops in the old town, or carry it in a paper bag as you sprint for your train. Simple gestures that have become a sweet daily ritual for so many Neapolitans.

No two graffe are ever identical, and that’s exactly what makes them special. Their slight imperfections are asessential as the thick sugar layer covering each doughnut.

Behind every treat there’s a pair of hands; behind every pair of hands, a gesture; and behind every gesture, a story that starts long before today.

After Ciro Fummo first opened Chalet Ciro back in 1952 in a Naples bursting with life, there was someone who shaped the sweeter soul of this Neapolitan bakery: Rosaria Fummo, the woman who helped turn a simple seaside café into a cult hangout for locals.

Nonna Rosaria was the creator of many recipes that now define the Chalet Ciro style.

Four generations have guarded those recipes and gestures like a family treasure, turning that know-how into what they call “artisanal intelligence”, a way of working handed down and refreshed with love.

A bar in Naples works much like a piazza – a place to meet, chat, and enjoy a slice of everyday life. There’s always something good to eat and a moment of life to savour.

Chalet Ciro has embraced this spirit, turning customers into familiar faces. “We delighted the grandparents when they were kids, then their sons. Today we delight their grandchildren,” says the owner, Antonio De Martino.

Stories intertwine, and the children who come in today for a graffa return tomorrow, grown-up, ordering two.

Quality is the pillar on which everything stands. It starts with ingredients and trusted suppliers. Fresh eggs, seasonal fruit, excellent flours: everything chosen with care.

From this attention to origins come the products people are happy to queue for. Like gelato – rated among the best in Europe by The Guardian – and the many sweet and savoury specialities leaving the workshop of this artisanal bakery in Naples every single day.

The atmosphere is part of the magic. Even the look of the place tells its own story.

This historic bakery in Naples is inspired by Italian Sixties design: the soft blue walls echo the sea and sky of Mergellina, while the counters recall the old shutters that filter the bright midday sun during the slow, drowsy cuntrora, as they call the siesta time in Naples. 

People come at all hours, and there’s always a lively, patient queue: guidebook-clutching tourists, Neapolitans passing through, and regulars for whom Chalet Ciro Naples is a fixed point in the day.

Also read how to get around Naples by public transport.

Food plays a central role in Naples. Some places are as much a part of the city as its museums, churches, and the narrow streets of its UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In the most beautiful and iconic spots, you’ll always find a place to pause for a tazzulella ’e cafè (cup of coffee) and bite into a crunchy sfogliatella.

Start your sightseeing tour from the seafront promenade, where Chalet Ciro has been welcoming everyone since 1952. For many locals, it represents the happy place of their childhood. Go say hi and take a gelato, a drink, or anything your palate desires. 

Right in the city centre, amid crowded shops and lively alleyways, the via Toledo branch catches the constant flow of visitors exploring Naples. A quick stop is almost inevitable for a sweet treat topped with fresh seasonal fruit or one of the savoury specialities. Then it’s off to explore Piazza del Plebiscito, the Royal Palace, and Maradona’s mural.

Take the funicular up to Vomero, Naples’ elegant and sunlit hill. This is the city’s high-end neighbourhood, home to refined streets, the Floridiana Villa with its breathtaking views of the Gulf, Castel Sant’Elmo, and the panoramic Certosa di San Martino. Here too, Chalet Ciro Naples has become a go-to spot for a sweet or savoury break, whether between shopping trips or a stroll with a view.

The Napoli Centrale station also has its own Chalet Ciro corner. It’s easy to recognise: it’s the one with the queue outside. A freshly fried graffa or a classic babà is the perfect send-off for those leaving, and a warm greeting for those arriving.

Also be sure to check out our 2-day itinerary in Naples.

Chalet Ciro has been sweetening the days of Neapolitans since the 1950s, accompanying them from breakfast to aperitivo and late-night treats.

The wise ones watch what the locals do, and that’s how they uncover a world of sugary delights.

Nonna Rosaria set the standard from the start. Quality has always remained exceptionally high, word spread, and the brand grew. This led to new locations in the heart of the old town and beyond, from the shop inside Maximall Pontecagnano to food trucks at major local malls, including Centro Commerciale Campania and MaxiMall Pompeii.

Thanks to its long-standing tradition, Chalet Ciro Naples has earned notable recognition, including the title of Bottega Storica and the TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence.

We love it for – The care taken with every ingredient, the very reason for its fame and something you can savour in every bite.

You’ll love it because – The recipes have been handed down for generations, so you know every treat will be good. And, of course, it would be a crime not to try their signature graffa.