Discovering Alto Molise: the secret to quick-hit tourism

Upper Molise is a small area of the Apennines, north of the province of Isernia: places, flavors, traditions and landscapes that don't show themselves, they want to be discovered.

For us it's like a treasure chest of jewels: it waits patiently with its hidden wonders, far from mass tourism routes, to offer you a time that still flows at the right pace.

Don't ask us which is the most beautiful village in Alto Molise, there's no answer, everyone has the village that went straight to their heart.

Choose your favorite on this journey to discover what to see and what to eat in the towns of Upper Molise.

An itinerary through Upper Molise among villages and unique delights you'll only find here.

Stroll along cobblestone streets, breathe in the silence of these places, and take the chance to taste and bring home products you'll hardly find at your local supermarket's deli counter.

Let's start with Carovilli's stracciata - hand-braided strips of stretched cheese made from evening and morning milk - then continue to the ancient village of Agnone and its curly confetti.

The route continues with an archaeological site that will amaze you, like the perfectly preserved Samnite theater, and a nature reserve with lots of deer and an old king.

If you're in Rome admiring the capital's beauty, why not carve out a trip here? A weekend of peace, flavor, and nature to recommend to friends when you get back.

If instead you're planning your stay in Naples, you can plan a hop to Upper Molise: with an hour and a half drive, you'll go from the liveliness of the Neapolitan city to the serenity of the green villages in this little Italian gem - increasingly a destination for travelers seeking physical and mental well-being and inner peace.

A village of about 1000 inhabitants at 860 meters above sea level, Carovilli presents itself without frills and welcomes you with a welcome sign that's a promise for food-loving travelers: "Welcome to Carovilli, climatic station and truffle town."

It's actually a summary, in reality the sign should have been longer: truffle town, stracciata and caciocavallo town.

And you can already understand the humble soul of the Carovilli people: nothing is shouted, nothing is overexposed, everything is to be discovered. The central square is the heart of the village: here face two bars, the town hall and the church of Santa Maria Assunta which houses the remains of Carovilli's patron saint, Santo Stefano del Lupo.

It's from this square that the cobblestone streets depart, climbing towards the summit of Monte Ferrante.

Following these uphill alleys, you gradually leave the inhabited center behind to immerse yourself in a green path that tells the ancient story of these places. Along the trail you encounter testimonies of a strong samnite presence:

- the cyclopean walls from the 3rd century b.C.

- the remains of the ancient gate of a people who had chosen these mountains as home and fortress

The path continues and, if you look around, you occasionally spot some picnic tables among the trees for a break in nature.

It's an excursion that offers wonderful panoramic views of the valley without requiring particular training.

Fifteen minutes by car from Carovilli we reach the Montedimezzo Oasis, a 276-hectare nature reserve with paths accessible even to families with strollers.

Here there's a deer refuge where they let themselves be observed without too much fear, creating those silent encounters that make this walk in the woods special.

Like every ancient land that respects itself, the Montedimezzo Oasis also has its king: King Fajone, a monumental beech that for centuries dominated the landscape.

A violent storm on a November night in 2017 brought it down; in Carovilli they tell of hearing the thud.

The large trunk is still there and is honored by paths that lead the hiker straight to its presence. The strong wind broke King Fajone but didn't uproot its roots that remain firmly anchored to the ground and symbolically demonstrate the silent resistance of this land.

At the entrance to the Oasis, a beautiful picnic area offers:

- tables and benches

- bathrooms

- barbecue stations

15 km separate Carovilli from the small village of Pietrabbondante and its privileged view of the valley. But the real surprise is the archaeological complex with the sanctuary and the samnite theater, exceptionally preserved.

The site has a scenic position, at about 1000 meters altitude, and offers a panorama over the entire Trigno valley and the villages perched along the route.

The archaeological complex, due to its monumentality, is considered the most important place of worship of the Samnite state.

The arrangement of the sanctuary began between the 4th and 3rd centuries b.C., while that of the theater began between the 2nd and 1st centuries b.C. about 2125 years ago.

Remember this fact and observe the theater seats, now try to sit on these stone seats: they're comfortable, aren't they?

There's a detail that will amaze you: the seats are slightly curved right at kidney height, a rounded curve demonstrates attention to ergonomics that sometimes lacks in certain seats of today's theaters.

Archaeological find and testimony of a civilization as ancient as it was evolved.

From Pietrabbondante we move to Agnone, a town with a beautiful historic center, famous for the bells of the “Antica Fonderia Marinelli” and for copper working.

Time passes between visiting the foundry, where you can see how a bell is born, and the many tastings of local gastronomic products.

Note these delights because now is the time to try them, you won't easily find them far from here:

- the confetto riccio (rough confetti). A confetti with a textured glaze that tastes of real almonds (those from Avola), nothing to do with the double and hard sugar coating that covers many confetti we're used to

- the panettone with mela zitella (apple spinster), an ancient biological cultivar widespread in Alto Molise

- the ostia di Agnone, a mixture of almonds, walnuts and honey enclosed between two light and crumbly wafers

The confetto riccio can only be found at the "Antica premiata Ditta Pasticceria Carosella," which produces it exclusively.

For the panettone with mela zitella, go to Gerri pastry shop, which has received more than one recognition for this large artisanal leavened product. Take advantage because, having left Agnone, the alternative is only to order it online from Gerri's website shop (but it's not always available).

The ostie di Agnone are sold a bit everywhere in town, individually or in gift packages.

The last stop on this Upper Molise route is the village of Capracotta, a sleepy little gem at 1421 meters altitude.

Capracotta is a small ski resort that in 1997 was the stage for the Italian Absolute Cross-Country skiing championships, the town still tells and lives off those days.

In winter, you can enjoy:

- the 15 km long cross-country ski trail, entirely within a beech and fir forest

- snowshoe hikes organized by the Capracotta Italian Ski School: panoramic views of the Sangro Valley and the Majella, even by moonlight.

In summer, the keywords are: cool, relaxation, and exercise:

- the “Valle Fiorita”

- long walks in the woods

- trekking routes

- biking

Then there are the sunsets behind the peaks, the artisanal cheeses, the truffle bruschetta, the fresh ricotta cream with strawberries and dark chocolate shavings.

The village of Capracotta is little embellished, nature is lush and still wild. It's dominated by the peaks of Monte Campo. It's beautiful but doesn't put on airs at all.

Isernia can be easily reached from Naples and Rome by car in approximately 1h 20 and 2h respectively. To reach Upper Molise by train, you can take direct trains from Rome, Pescara and Naples to Isernia or Venafro.

To reach Isernia by bus, consult the Flixbus website for the schedules of buses that reach Isernia with a stop at Piazza della Repubblica.

Carovilli, Pietrabbondante, Agnone and Capracotta are villages very close to each other; you can easily reach them by car and this is the means of transport we recommend.

You can arrive in Isernia by bus and rent a car from here to start your journey into the uncontaminated nature of Upper Molise.