Oltrepo Pavese: Discover Lombardy's Hidden Wine Region

Vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see, rolling hills, medieval villages and winding roads that invite you to slow down: Oltrepo Pavese is one of Lombardy’s hidden gems, a land of wine, flavors and authentic experiences, far from the well-trodden tourist trails.

Here, the countryside changes with the seasons, while ancient castles and charming villages dot a landscape deeply rooted in winemaking traditions. But the best way to get to know this region is to savor it: step into a local cellar, meet the winemakers and let yourself be won over by the wines of Oltrepo Pavese, paired with the finest local specialties.

In this guide, you’ll explore the wine roads, tasting experiences, most picturesque villages and places not to miss, along with tips on the best time to visit Oltrepo Pavese and enjoy the atmosphere of Autunno Pavese through local wines, traditions and flavors.

Oltrepo Pavese stretches across the southern part of the province of Pavia, between the Po Valley and the first foothills of the Apennines. Its distinctive shape lies between the Po River to the north and hills that gradually rise towards the south, with vineyards, woodlands and valleys creating a remarkably varied landscape.

The roads winding through this countryside lead you through historic villages and past castles, trails and farms, offering the chance to experience a different side of Lombardy, far removed from the image of its major cities.

It is precisely this variety that makes Oltrepo an unmissable destination for anyone looking to enjoy an outdoor adventure at a slower pace. Spend a day among the vineyards, stop at a local winery for a tasting, then continue towards a hilltop village along scenic roads that reveal a new view around every bend.

And then there is the food. Oltrepo is a land to be savored one glass at a time, moving from local wineries to tables where regional wines meet traditional flavors, from Salame di Varzi DOP to local cured meats and cheeses.

Oltrepo Pavese, in short, has all the ingredients to win you over. Let the road and your curiosity be your guides, and get ready: every turn will reveal a unique view, every stop a flavor to remember, and every toast one more reason to fall in love with this land.

Oltrepo Pavese is one of Lombardy’s great wine regions, with a long winemaking tradition expressed through a remarkable variety of grapes and wine styles. To get to know the area, start with these five wines, each with its own character and story, and look for them during a tasting at a local winery.

Pinot Nero: one of Oltrepo Pavese’s signature grape varieties, it finds one of Italy’s most distinctive growing areas here. You can enjoy it as an elegant, structured red or in the renowned Oltrepo Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG sparkling wines, made by secondary fermentation in the bottle. Pinot Nero is at the heart of the region’s sparkling wine production, including the rosé style known as Cruasé.

Barbera: intense, dry and lightly tannic, Barbera is one of the historic grape varieties of Oltrepo Pavese and is used to produce Oltrepo Pavese Barbera DOC, also available in a lightly sparkling style. Its fruity, wine-forward aromas pair beautifully with the bold flavors of local cuisine, from roasted and boiled meats to hearty pasta dishes.

Bonarda: made primarily from Croatina grapes, it comes in both still and lightly sparkling styles, with the latter being the best known. It has intense aromas of sour cherry and blackberry, with a pleasantly vinous character and a subtle tannic edge. It pairs beautifully with cured meats, local cheeses and pasta dishes featuring meat- or mushroom-based sauces.

Buttafuoco: produced in eastern Oltrepo Pavese, around Stradella and the surrounding hills, Buttafuoco is a blend of Croatina and Barbera, complemented by Uva Rara and Ughetta. This full-bodied, intense red is also available in a lightly sparkling style and is a natural match for hearty dishes such as roasted meats, game and the more robust specialties of traditional Pavia cuisine.

Sangue di Giuda: perhaps the most intriguing surprise for anyone discovering the wines of Oltrepo Pavese for the first time. Produced in a small hilly area of the province of Pavia, this sweet red wine comes in lightly sparkling and sparkling styles. Soft and fragrant, with delicate notes of jam and dried flowers, it pairs beautifully with aged and spicy cheeses and, above all, with desserts made with fresh fruit.

There is no single wine road to follow from start to finish: Oltrepo Pavese is a vast region made up of 78 municipalities and several valleys, where vineyards, wineries and villages stretch across dozens of miles. The best way to explore it is to choose one area and experience it at your own pace, alternating a winery tasting with a stroll through a village or a scenic stop.

If wine is your main focus, start in Casteggio, a town in the heart of Oltrepo Pavese and home to numerous wineries. From here, continue into the hills of Montalto Pavese, a village in a panoramic setting, perfect for taking in views of the green hills and surrounding vineyards.

Alternatively, head toward the western edge of Oltrepo Pavese, to Santa Maria della Versa, one of the areas most closely associated with Pinot Nero and sparkling wine production.

To add the charm of small villages to your itinerary, don’t miss Fortunago, one of Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages, and Zavattarello, dominated by its stone castle. Farther south, Varzi is another unmissable stop, while Stradella, on the border between the provinces of Pavia and Piacenza, is also worth a visit.

The villages of Oltrepo Pavese reveal the most authentic side of the region. They are ideal stops to add between wine tastings, allowing you to alternate the pleasure of wine with local history and atmosphere.

Fortunago is one of the most charming villages in the area. As you stroll along its quiet streets, you can admire historic stone houses, the enchanting Oratory of Sant’Antonio da Padova in the heart of the village, and the remains of the ancient castle. Yet its real highlight is its beautiful setting, surrounded by woods and rolling hills that open onto wonderful views.

At Zavattarello, the star is Castello Dal Verme, a fortress overlooking the surrounding landscape from its hilltop position. You can reach it on a pleasant uphill walk through the greenery, leading to the fortress walls and towers. The castle is also linked to stories of the ghost of Pietro Dal Verme, which feature in evening tours and local tales, adding an intriguing atmosphere to the visit.

Varzi preserves medieval arcades, narrow streets, towers and traces of its ancient fortifications in its historic center. After your walk, stop at a local shop to taste the delicious Salame di Varzi DOP, one of the area’s signature specialties.

Stradella has a different character. At the foot of the Oltrepo hills, you can visit the Accordion Museum dedicated to Mariano Dallapè, who opened his first workshop here in 1876, and then continue into the surrounding hills and the area’s many wineries.

Finally, Montalto Pavese is worth a detour for its commanding position on the hills above Casteggio. The village is dominated by its 16th-century castle, now privately owned and not open to visitors, whose towers and Italian-style garden are among the most recognizable features of the local landscape.

Oltrepo Pavese takes on a different character with every season. While spring is perfect for winding along the roads through the vineyards, when the hills turn green and mild temperatures invite you to stop in the villages, fall has a charm that is perhaps hard to match.

It’s harvest season, when the hills change color and a special atmosphere fills the wineries. This is the perfect time to alternate a walk through the vineyards with a wine tasting, choosing, whenever possible, a winery that offers visits during the harvest.

This is also when Autunno Pavese takes place, a historic event celebrating the food and wine excellence of the province of Pavia.

More than just an event, it is an invitation to follow the thread that connects local products with the places where they are made. During Autunno Pavese in Tour, for example, wineries, farms and restaurants open their doors to visitors with tastings, tours, meetings and activities linked to local traditions.

In Oltrepo Pavese, the 2026 program, running from September 19 to October 11, includes experiences among the vineyards, harvest-related events, Buttafuoco routes and initiatives highlighting products from Varzi.

Meanwhile, the main Autunno Pavese fair returns to Pavia from October 2 to 5 at Palazzo delle Esposizioni for its 72nd edition. Here, you can taste local products and specialties and discover the different expressions of Pavia’s culinary traditions. This year’s program includes areas dedicated to mixology, risotto and autumn tastings, as well as the Piazza del Gusto and, for the first time, food trucks.

If you want to get to know Oltrepo Pavese through its wine and cuisine, fall is one of the most interesting times of year: you can follow the rhythm of the harvest, step inside a winery, taste local products where they are made, or head to Pavia and experience the province’s entire culinary heritage gathered together in one unmissable event.

The history of Oltrepò Pavese is closely linked to grape growing and wine production. Archaeological findings testify to the presence of the Etruscans as early as the 7th century BC, when viticulture was also practiced for commercial purposes.

One of the earliest written accounts of the area comes from the Greek geographer Strabo, who traveled through these lands in 40 BC alongside the Roman army and praised the local wine, the hospitality of its people and its large wooden barrels. Pliny the Elder also mentioned Clastidium, present-day Casteggio, and Litubium, now Retorbido, highlighting their flourishing wine production.

Over the centuries, Oltrepo’s winemaking tradition continued to develop. In the 16th century, the physician and writer Andrea Bacci described the wines of the area, while a curious detail from 1618 illustrates just how important wine was in everyday life: that year, the Almo Collegio Borromeo in Pavia allocated 22% of its total expenditure to purchasing wine.

The 19th century saw the first publications devoted to viticulture, along with a detailed description of the grape varieties grown in the area, which at the time was part of the Kingdom of Piedmont. It was also a period of significant production, with around one million hectoliters of wine produced, but it was marked by the arrival of phylloxera, which devastated much of Europe’s vineyards during the 20th century.

Today the Oltrepò area is a unique reality in Italy: a land far from the main tourist itineraries, populated by people who are still frank and who give their wine the same character and vivacity.

Oltrepo Pavese, in southern Lombardy, borders Piedmont and Emilia-Romagna, and just a few miles from inland Liguria. It is easy to reach from Milan and other major cities in northern Italy.

By car: the main access routes are the A21 motorway if you are coming from Turin or Piacenza, with exits at Broni-Stradella and Casteggio, and the A7 if you are coming from Milan or Genoa, with the Casei Gerola exit.

By train: Voghera is the main railway hub, served by the Milan-Genoa and Turin-Bologna lines. Stradella and Broni are also served by regional trains.

Getting around: for an itinerary combining vineyards, wineries and villages, a car is the most practical option, especially if you want to reach the more rural areas and valleys of Oltrepo. If you plan to drive, make sure your tasting itinerary takes travel time and responsible drinking into account.

Cycling is a good alternative, especially in Valle Staffora, where the approximately 30-kilometer Voghera-Varzi Greenway runs through the valley.

Wine tastings: always book in advance, especially on weekends and during the harvest season. Before setting out, check opening days and hours, tour options and tasting availability directly with the winery.

How long to stay: a weekend allows you to combine wine tastings, villages and scenic landscapes without rushing.

Our tip: if you only have one day, focus on a single area of Oltrepo and choose two or three nearby stops. This way, you can alternate a winery visit with a stroll through a village or a local food stop, instead of spending the whole day in the car.