Are you a climbing and outdoor enthusiast? Here are ten must-see crags in Italy for your perfect climb!
Climbing is an outdoor sport where climbers test themselves by climbing rock walls, also known as crags. Each crag has a different number of routes and sectors (ways) that can be mounted. All this with ropes and specific safety equipment and always accompanied by mountain guides. It is a true vertical journey that has always fascinated the most intrepid climbers, who are not afraid to put themselves to the test.
It is a way of understanding and overcoming one's limits, opening oneself up to change...an attempt to go in search of new horizons! In Italy, there are walls suitable for all difficulties (in Italy, this uses the French scale): both expert and novice climbers can test themselves on a wide variety of rock faces, both at sea and in the mountains.
There are many places where you can try your hand at a new climb. If you, too, have been captivated by the passion for climbing, Visit Italy would like to recommend ten crags that are worth climbing in Italy!
Every time I start climbing, a transformation takes place in me. When my hands rest on the rock, all weariness and discomfort disappear. An unknown force enters my blood, and the more I climb, the stronger I feel, and the more manageable the passages seem.
10. Avostanis Crag (Friuli Venezia Giulia)
We are in Carnia (Friuli Venezia Giulia), at an altitude of around 1950m. The Avostanis crag is climbing above the enchanting lake of the same name in the Carnic Alps. This wall is suitable for climbers of all levels (ranging from grade 4b to 8b).
It is a limestone wall about a hundred metres high and almost 300 metres wide. It closes and frames the northern lock of Lake Avostanis in a practically scenic way. Climbing here is very technical and always requires careful use of the feet.
The first alpine routes marked out on the cliff date back to the 1980s. There are routes suitable for everyone: experts, beginners and children.
9. Pizzoferrato and Pennadomo crags (Abruzzo)
We are in the territory of the Majella Park, and overlooking the Sangro river valley is the magnificent wall of Pizzoferrato. Pizzoferrato is a small village in the province of Chieti, not far from Rivisondoli and Roccaraso.
The area is by woods above which the limestone rock towers, the first ascent of which took place in the late spring of 1994 by local climbers. There are not many climbing routes: about twenty. They require some experience and technique (from 5b to 8b+ overhangs), with routes up to 40 metres long. Not a place for beginner climbers! In the neighbouring village of Quadri, there are other equipped walls with routes from 5b to 7a+.
About 40 minutes by car from Pizzoferrato, there is the beautiful crag of Pennadomo. Pennadomo is a small village in Abruzzo Citeriore, surrounded by vertical limestone blades which emerge from the gentle hills of the middle valley of the Sangro river. Given its scenic beauty and geographical and climatic position (close to the Adriatic Sea and the wild mountains of Lower Abruzzo), Pennadomo is a small jewel with a unique heritage.
The first climbing of the cliff was in the 1980s. Given the constitution of the rocks, the climbing style here is purely technical. In short: a great challenge for experienced climbers but an enjoyable stay for their companions.
8. Mount Amiata Crags (Tuscany)
Located between the provinces of Grosseto and Siena is Monte Amiata, a mountain range of volcanic origin in the Tuscan Antiappennines. Lovers of outdoor sports know it very well because of the many entertainment possibilities it offers, one of which is undoubtedly free climbing on cliffs.
Climbing has been practised on the Amiata for about a decade now. There also has a growing interest in bouldering, a climbing without harnesses but at much lower heights (3/4 metres).
Among the most "frequented" places by climbers in the area are: the municipality of Santa Fiora, with the crags of Sasso Corbaio and Mura del Terraio, and the municipality of Castel del Piano with the peaks of Scalanaia and Tepolini.
But what fascinates everyone (climbers and non-climbers alike) is Sasso di Dante. It is on the road connecting the town of Abbadia San Salvatore to the Amiata peak. It is a rock characterised by its shape that recalls the profile of the great poet. Also nearby are the Catarcione and Hollywood walls.
The highest wall in the area reaches about 30 metres. Given the different exposure of the crags, it is possible to climb all year round. Monte Amiata is very popular with climbers, not only for the many climbs it offers (about 100) but also for the safety and beauty of the place itself.
7. Finale Ligure crags (Liguria)
Finale Ligure is a town in the province of Savona, in Liguria. It is very popular as a destination for the summer holidays. Its sea is limpid and crystal clear, and its territory is rich in unique panoramas and suggestive places.
Climbing in Finale Ligure is world-famous. The crags are endless and all unique. There are varying difficult routes: from the easiest to the most challenging.
Climbing in the Finale area is a scenic experience: one of the largest karst areas in Italy, with its rocks plunging into the sea. From dawn to dusk, you will find climbers intent on an exciting and thrilling climb. Among the cliffs not to be missed: Sciamarco, Capo Noli, Bric Pianarella.
6. Monte Consolino in Stilo (Calabria)
Mount Consolino rises in the Stilaro valley, in Stilo, south-western Calabria. It is a relief belonging to the Serre chain.
Its long wall has become a meeting point for climbers from all over Italy. Stilo offers stunning overhanging walls. It looks like a painter has put his hands on the cliff: limestone rocks with orange, black and grey shades.
The routes to be climbed are long and athletic: 100 lines with difficulties ranging from 4a to 9a, all carefully bolted thanks to the protection of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering association. Of particular interest and beauty is the Grotta sector, an overhanging cliff with canes and drops: one of the most beautiful of its kind, not only for Calabria but also for all of southern Italy.
5. Calamancina in San Vito lo Capo (Sicily)
In San Vito lo Capo, you absolutely must not miss a cliff: the Calamancina cliff, the right wall for those who love the technique and sea climbing. The cliff takes its name from the bay it overlooks.
It is divided into four sectors and is one of the most popular crags on the Salinella cliffs. Particularly sector D, the Grotta sector, where you will also find the classic, steeper climbs such as "Chr.Is.To" (level 8a) and "Banana Biologica" (level 7a+). The latter consists of a red and white rock of singular beauty.
It is a very quiet crag, suitable for beginners and experienced climbers and families.
4. Ceredo Crag (Veneto)
A few kilometres north of Verona is Ceredo, a small village on the slopes of the Lessini Mountains.
Ceredo is undoubtedly one of northern Italy's most beautiful and vital crags. In the classic sector, the climbing is mainly overhanging. There are also beautiful routes of medium difficulty on the vertical.
After the classic sector, a 15-minute walk takes you to Ceredo Alta. This bolted crag is very popular with experienced climbers. It was abandoned for many years, only to become safe to climb again at the end of 2011. It is mainly in winter, with more technical routes on vertical walls.
3. Colle dell'Orso in Frosolone (Molise)
Colle dell'Orso crag in Frosolone is historically the most important in Molise. More than 400 sports climbing routes, 70 of which are for real professionals (difficulty above the eighth grade).
The mountain is between the Trigno and Biferno valleys, in a high-hill system east of the Matese and south of the Majella. The rock faces of Frosolone are of a grey and challenging limestone, composed of smooth slabs and scattered holes. Among the "easiest" to climb is the Morgia Quadra crag, with around a hundred routes between 4th and 6th grade (beginner and intermediate).
Colle dell'Orso crag's climbing was for the first time in the 1980s: many climbers have loved it and have been willing to create new routes after climbing it. Given its height of over 1200m and intense exposure to the wind, the best time to climb it is in spring-summer when the ice has melted. It is then possible to climb it at any time of day.
If you decide to come and climb this cliff, don't miss a trip to Frosolone, a town rich in culinary, cultural, ethnic and archaeological attractions.
2. Mannute crags in Santa Maria di Leuca (Apulia)
We are in Salento, in Santa Maria di Leuca, inside the Costa d'Otranto Natural Park in a setting of incredible beauty. The cliffs are a spectacular wall overlooking the sea.
The Mannute crags (such as Grotta and Anga) are cliffs where you can climb from a convenient ledge 50 m above sea level. The difficulties range from 5° to 8a (beginner - super expert), and the style is overhanging climbing.
The rock, made of compact limestone, is characterised by holes and reeds that make climbing challenging and fun. Thanks to the mild climate and afternoon shade, it is possible to climb all year round. However, we don't recommend climbing on particularly wet days and days after rainy weather.
1. Belvedere Crag in Nago (Trentino Alto Adige)
We are in the beautiful setting of Lake Garda, in Nago. The name Belvedere already gives an idea of what you will find once you have climbed up this beautiful cliff. It is a white limestone cliff with 48 well-bolted routes with fixes and resin bolts. The ridge has two sectors:
- Sector A: the lower sector with more accessible and shorter routes;
- Sector B: the higher sector, with longer and more overhanging routes that require forearm strength and good technique.
The crag is very popular in the summer months and at weekends.