Escape to Tuscia: A 5-Day Itinerary through Italy’s secret villages and wild beauty

Tuscia is that suggestive territory made of sweet panoramas, ancient villages, lakes and uncontaminated nature, located in the heart of central Italy, in the area of Alto Lazio (northern area of the Lazio region). It is one of the most fascinating areas of this region, as it retains a wild character, free from large industrial or urban settlements, made up only of unusual landscapes and rare gems to discover. A journey here means a slow immersion into relaxation and beauty.

The name Tuscia derives from the name with which the ancient Romans called the Etruscans, or Tusci, one of the most fascinating pre-Roman peoples who lived in central Italy. Tuscia, therefore, was synonymous with Etruria, and from Tusci in the singular Tuscus derives the name of the Tuscany region. Are you ready to leave?

In this itinerary of Tuscia we will take you by the hand to discover a wonderful area, where you can alternate visits to rare beauties with long moments of relaxation in thermal waters or in the calm waters of a lake. The 5-day itinerary in Tuscia is tailor-made for a traveler who seeks peace and beauty, far from mass tourism.

We will tell you how to divide the stages and alternate visits and relaxations, we will show you the local specialties and where to stop for refreshments. Prepare your backpack, put on a pair of comfortable shoes, but don't forget a swimsuit and a pair of flip-flops for your relaxing breaks. For this 5-day itinerary in Tuscia, the best way to travel is by car.

To plan a trip to these parts, if you don't arrive directly with your car, consider that the closest airports are: Rome, if you are also planning a visit to the capital; or Perugia, if you really want to escape the masses. In both cases you can find a car rental and depending on where you are coming from, you can reverse the itinerary we suggest. Let’s go!

The first stop on our 5-day itinerary in Tuscia is what is considered the nerve center of the area: Viterbo, the ancient city of the Popes. Arrive here early in the morning. Already in the distance you will notice a picturesque town perched on the tuff. Viterbo boasts one of the best preserved medieval historic centers in Italy and you will enjoy walking along its paved alleys full of ups and downs, stairs and fountains, you will feel like you are in a magical village, like those imagined in the Harry Potter saga. Spend your morning wandering around the village discovering its beauties, such as the Palazzo dei Papi, symbol of the city, the Museum of the Sodalizio dei Facchini di Santa Rosa, where you will discover one of the most fascinating Italian folk festivals: the Festa di Santa Rosa, included in the Intangible Heritage by UNESCO.

For lunch we recommend something light to eat at the edge of a fountain, such as a sandwich with some typical ingredients of the area. In the early afternoon take advantage of the cool underground and discover the intriguing and curious underground Viterbo, the city under the city. End your day in a relaxing way at the Terme dei Papi, they are open until 7:00 pm but on Saturday you can access until 1:00 am. If you arrive here on Saturday we suggest you go to the spa after dinner, if instead it is another day of the week the advice is to take advantage of the spa in the late afternoon and then treat yourself to a nice dinner in a tavern in the village, based on typical dishes such as Fieno di Canepina (a type of pasta seasoned with white ragù), or a dish based on lake fish, legumes or meat seasoned, strictly with the tasty oil of Tuscia.

The sun rises and lights up the second day amidst the enchanting landscapes of Tuscia. The suggestion remains the same: don’t miss out on the early hours and start your day bright and early. Today begins slowly. Before leaving Viterbo, let’s stop to pick up some local ingredients and head to the shores of Lake Bolsena for a picnic.

Bolsena is about a 45-minute drive away. Lake Bolsena is the largest volcanic lake in Europe, nestled in the hilly-mountainous group of the Volsini Mountains. The scenery is magnificent: we’ll spend the whole morning here enjoying our lakeside picnic. Some of the best spots to stop include Bolsena itself; alternatively, if you prefer a quieter atmosphere, choose the Turona Park, surrounded by greenery with the added opportunity to explore its archaeological area.

In the afternoon, get back on the road and head towards the ancient and charming town of Celleno. Celleno is just a 30-minute drive from Lake Bolsena and is home to one of the most beautiful ghost villages in Italy, protected by the FAI (Italian Environmental Fund). This historic village is a rare and little-known gem, offering stunning views of the surrounding countryside in complete tranquility.

Celleno is also known as the Cherry Town: rows of cherry trees stretch across the hills, offering juicy, delicious fruit. The Cherry Eco-Museum, the Cherry Festival with its 20-meter-long tart, and Celleno’s Maraschino liqueur are just a few examples of how this prized fruit is celebrated. After strolling through the village, let’s stop for a snack, or why not stay for dinner and taste some delicious local dishes made with cherries.

Day three of our 5-day itinerary in Tuscia begins with a good breakfast in the "Village of Fairy Tales": Sant’Angelo di Roccalvecce, an enchanted hamlet suspended between reality and magic. Sant’Angelo is just a 10-minute drive from the village of Celleno and is a true open-air museum where beautiful murals and all-female street art take center stage. Here, you’ll find incredible wall paintings on the sides of houses, all inspired by the world’s most beloved fairy tales, from Alice in Wonderland to the gnomes of the Grimm Brothers.

After a long and pleasant stop in this magical village, let’s hop back in the car and head to Graffignano. This drive is also very short: just 7 minutes. Graffignano is a charming village offering breathtaking views over the entire Tiber Valley. It’s a little town immersed in woods rich in flora and fauna, with an irresistible charm that makes it well worth a visit. Overlooking the village is the impressive Baglioni Castle, built on a rectangular plan and featuring a 20-meter-high cylindrical tower. The castle is open to visitors and preserves the village’s medieval legacy with classic elements like a moat, walls, towers, and arrow slits.

Is almost lunch time. In Graffignano you’ll be able to enjoy typical local dishes with wild boar and truffles, excellent olive oil, and baked goods. Savor your meal, then take your time exploring the village, and why not stay for dinner too? It’s the perfect opportunity to try anything you might have missed at lunch and experience the full range of local culinary delights.

On the fourth day of our slow itinerary through Tuscia, we move to a small hamlet near Graffignano: Spicciano. In Spicciano, we recommend exploring the historic center, including the Church of Santa Maria Assunta in Cielo and the Baglioni Chapel. As you leave the center, take a slow walk through the surrounding countryside, where you'll find hazelnut groves, olive trees, and vineyards.

On June 21st and 22nd, this village hosts the Festa del Lombricello, a local celebration dedicated to Lombricello, a traditional handmade pasta from the area, served with various kinds of sauces. Before continuing your journey, stop here for lunch and enjoy the peacefulness of a town untouched by mass tourism, where time-honored traditions and rhythms remain unchanged.

Then, resume your five-day Tuscia itinerary and head toward a natural paradise: the WWF Oasis of Alviano, just a 15-minute drive from Spicciano. This nature reserve spans 900 hectares and is open from September 1st to June 30th. With around 250 bird species—both resident and migratory depending on the season—including rare examples like cranes, wild geese, and ospreys, it's a perfect stop for birdwatching and nature photography enthusiasts.

For dinner, we suggest heading to the stunning village of Castiglione in Teverina, where you can taste delicious focaccia with porchetta, truffle-stuffed ravioli, grilled Colonnata pork loin, and exquisite local cheeses.

Here we are at the fifth and final day of our itinerary. And we’re ending on a high note with two rare gems in the area, just beyond the borders of Tuscia.

The first stop of the day is the stunning Civita di Bagnoregio, known as "The Dying City". This is a village where time seems to have stood still, and it’s known for a curious feature that explains its nickname: Civita has only 11 residents. And yet, or perhaps because of this, it has become a much-loved destination for travelers. Perched atop a tuff cliff, Civita is accessible only on foot. A spectacular pedestrian bridge connects the new town to the ancient village. A word of caution for those with a fear of heights, the walk can make your head spin (in a good way).

We suggest stopping here for lunch before continuing to one of the most elegant jewels of Umbria, just a 30-minute drive from Civita di Bagnoregio: Orvieto.

Like Civita, Orvieto is also built on a tuff cliff. Here, you can admire the Orvieto Cathedral—one of the most beautiful in all of Italy—visit St. Patrick’s Well, the deepest walkable well in the world, and explore the Woodworkers’ Street, lined with magnificent interactive wooden sculptures.

Orvieto is a perfect place to end your journey. However, as mentioned at the beginning, feel free to reverse the route and do the itinerary in the opposite direction, starting from Perugia.

Our 5-Day itinerary through the villages and untamed nature of Tuscia has come to an end. Let’s recap the journey’s stops:

Day 1 – Viterbo
The trip begins in one of the most fascinating and unspoiled areas of the region, where nature reigns and industrialization is absent. A day dedicated to slowing down, listening to rare landscapes, and discovering hidden treasures. An invitation to relax, recharge, and reconnect with beauty.

Day 2 – From Viterbo to Celleno via Lake Bolsena
Morning: Buy local ingredients in Viterbo and head to Lake Bolsena, the largest volcanic lake in Europe, for a scenic lakeside picnic.
Suggested stops: The village of Bolsena, or for more peace and quiet, Turona Park, surrounded by nature and archaeological trails.
Afternoon: In about 30 minutes by car, reach Celleno, one of the most beautiful ghost towns in Italy, protected by the Italian Environment Fund (FAI). Also known as the Cherry Town, it offers typical local products, stunning views, and complete tranquility.
Evening: Stop for a snack or dinner based on delicious cherry-based local dishes.

Day 3 – Sant’Angelo di Roccalvecce and Graffignano
Morning: The day starts in Sant’Angelo di Roccalvecce, the Fairy Tale Village, just 10 minutes from Celleno. It’s an open-air museum filled with murals dedicated to the world’s most famous fairy tales.
Afternoon: Just 7 minutes away is Graffignano, a village immersed in woodlands, offering breathtaking views over the Tiber Valley and home to the impressive Baglioni Castle, which is open to visitors.
Local specialties: Wild boar dishes, truffles, fine olive oil, and baked goods.
Evening: Enjoy dinner to complete the local culinary experience.

Day 4 – Sipicciano and the WWF Oasis of Alviano
Morning: Visit Sipicciano, a hamlet of Graffignano. Explore the Church of Santa Maria Assunta in Cielo, the Baglioni Chapel, and take a slow walk through hazelnut groves, olive trees, and vineyards.
Afternoon: Just 15 minutes away is the WWF Oasis of Alviano, a 900-hectare nature reserve (open from September 1st to June 30th) that hosts over 250 bird species, including cranes, wild geese, and ospreys. Perfect for birdwatchers and nature photographers.
Evening: Head to Castiglione in Teverina for dinner and try focaccia with porchetta, truffle ravioli, lardo di Colonnata steak, and local cheeses.

Day 5 – Civita di Bagnoregio and Orvieto
Morning: Discover Civita di Bagnoregio, the famous Dying Town, with only 11 inhabitants. Accessible only on foot via a dramatic pedestrian bridge, it’s a surreal and captivating place.
Lunch: Stay for lunch and soak in the unique atmosphere.
Afternoon & Evening: In just 30 minutes you’ll reach Orvieto, a gem of Umbria, also perched atop a tuff cliff. Visit the majestic Orvieto Cathedral, the Well of St. Patrick (the deepest visitable well in the world), and the Street of Wood Artisans with interactive sculptures.

Note: You can also reverse this itinerary by starting in Perugia and ending in Viterbo.