Florentine leather and the ancient art of the Tuscan tanning industry

The process of working the raw material and its transformation into leather is called tanning. The purpose of this particular treatment is to make the leather soft, waterproof, breathable and resistant, so that it can be used to make shoes, bags, jackets, small accessories and all the other products that made the Florentine leather famous. 

The production in Italy is distinguished by the so-called technique of Cuoietto Artistico Fiorentino: the products are worked and shaped by hand, cold glued with natural materials, decorated with applications, inlays or engravings and dyed with natural pigments, taking on different shades that give life, each time, to unique manufacts.

Fun fact: initially the workshops were almost all located between Piazza Santa Croce and the banks of the Arno river, but they were then moved to make room for a monument of great prestige, the Uffizi gallery, as leather working was a rather... smelly!

The history of Florentine leather has its roots in very ancient times. Generally, its origin dates back to the Etruscan age, even if the greatest impulse came in the Middle Ages.

In fact, it was towards the end of the 13th century that the Arte dei Cuoiai e dei Galigai was born, a corporation that grouped all the trades involved in the processing of hides: cuoiai (leather men), pelacani (tanners), pezzai (retailers) and orpellai (gilders).

The association imposed extremely strict rules with very serious punishments for those who did not abide by the statute. This was the only way to guarantee the achievement of the high quality standards that still today distinguish Italian leather as the most renowned in the world.

The river Arno was crucial for the development of the tanning industry and for the production of Florentine leather: its presence in fact facilitated the transport of goods and it was in its waters, upstream and downstream of Ponte Vecchio, that the hides were left to soak for tanning. 

But the real tanning activity was carried out in a specific area of the city, that is to say in the small streets that connected Piazza Santa Croce to Piazza della Signoria. Each alley of the area was named after one of the trades of leather working.

Some names, such as Via dei Bucciai and Via dei Pelacani, have unfortunately been substituted in the course of time, while others, such as Via dei Conciatori and Via della Concia, are still in use today and bear witness to the industrious production activity of the time.

Walking around Florence's most important monuments, you will certainly come across shops that still carry on this tradition.

It is still possible to walk through the streets of Florence and be carried away by the wonderful scent of leather. When you talk about leather processing, you cannot help but think of the multitude of stalls, the colorful stores and high fashion boutiques that fill the city, characterizing it unequivocally.

Among the most established brands, Barone Firenze stands out: an authentic Florentine reality that, combining tradition and innovation, has made Florentine leather craftsmanship its strong point.

A careful selection of raw materials, an entirely handcrafted workmanship and a constant attention to the new trends of Italian fashion, make Barone garments products of quality and style, unique in their kind.